10 Most Common Electric Fence Problems, Part 5

#9 Stapling:  Safety First: Always wear safety glasses when driving staples.  Staples are an important part of a high-tensile electric fence.  You will want to purchase 8 gauge galvanized-barbed staples, that will not rust or bend.  Be cautious stapling when using plastic tube insulators. Do not staple too tightly or you could damage the insulator, resulting in a hidden short.  On line posts you should staple diagonally over the tube.  Wraparound insulators are used at corner and ends; they have a larger diameter and require a different stapling technique.  Place one staple horizontally above and below the wraparound.  Then slightly bend the staples toward each other encompassing the wraparound. This will prevent damaging the insulator.   Non-electric wires should never be stapled tightly either.  Smooth wires and horizontal woven wires should float between the posts so that all tension is directed to well-built brace units, and not applied to line posts.  There are right and left hand staples.  If you rotate the staple 30°-40° away from the flat surface you will prevent the post from splitting. The staple legs will spread outward for greater holding strength.  Drive staples at an upward angle into the posts in dips and at a downward angle on rises. Stapling can be made easier with a Kencove staple starter.

 

#10 Livestock training:  Inadequate animal training can be detrimental to an electric fence.  Horses can be haltered and walk around the fence boundaries, but most animals will need to be started in small paddocks.  Make sure the fence is visible; this may require the use of fence flags.  Domestic animals are not the only animals that need trained.  If your electric fence is built to exclude deer, you may want to bait the fence so that the deer learn that the fence shocks.  Folks often bait a fence by attaching peanut butter coated aluminum foil.  Training livestock to the fence and their surrounding is important to their safety and the construction of your fence.

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6 Comments

  1. Adam
    Posted October 25, 2016 at 9:24 pm | Permalink

    Great blog – I have a Gallagher M150 and a 5 strand, small paddock, 350 linear feet. My Energizer is 100ft away from my fence and slightly uphill. I have 3 ground rods 10 ft apart on an angle in about 4 ft (bed rock is ft down). Small shock on fence.
    1) Any luck using a grounding plate (1×1.5)
    2) Have a 20 ft section has a gate and barn door where fence is interrupted, would I gain anything from connecting this underground to complete circuit?
    I will be shopping for a proper volt meter
    Thanks

    • Kencove Kencove
      Posted October 26, 2016 at 8:01 am | Permalink

      Thanks Adam glad you enjoyed our posts!Do you know your current voltage? Do you currently have a voltmeter? We have a few options check out our VSXK digital voltmeter. A ground plate my work in your situation since your bedrock is so close. A ground plate will help increase your surface area and help your ground bed. Let us know if we can be of more assistance!

  2. Jim: Mataya
    Posted October 24, 2016 at 8:14 pm | Permalink

    Hi,it seems I have a problem with the hot side of fence controller.box blinks with no wire ground or hot connected.when I connect the ground it blinks.but when I connect the hot wire it does not bink.I have restring the fence,changed insulators,there are no slices on wire.any idea what I have done.thanks jim

    • Kencove Kencove
      Posted October 25, 2016 at 8:33 am | Permalink

      What unit do you have Jim? What size energizer is it? What is the length of your fence?

  3. Michael Smith
    Posted September 13, 2016 at 8:23 am | Permalink

    Good morning! Thank you for the great information here. I have a quick question. I live in Oklahoma and I have a self contained solar powered unit for my two acre property. I’m having a what I believe to be a grounding problem. The ground is very dry and the fence seems to have lost its “spunk”. There is no vegetation or broken wire or anything of the sort. Using my fence tester at the terminals with the hot and ground wires off, it test’s fine. Replacing the hot only and testing the hot wire and grounding at the terminal everything is also fine…7k volts. I replace the ground to the terminal to test both and nothing. Being new at this when I installed the unit I installed only one 10′ ground rod about 15′ away from the unit. (It was tough getting that in the ground, so I got lazy and didn’t put the other rods recommended by the manufacturer) The fence was working just fine while the ground was damp but as I mentioned it’s pretty dry now. After reading your blog, it appears that maybe I need at least a couple more GALVANIZED grounds rods as the ground wire from the terminal is galvanized. (I wish the guy at Tractor Supply would have mentioned that). Should I abandon the copper ground rod and put another galvanized one next ti it? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

    • Kencove Kencove
      Posted September 14, 2016 at 11:32 am | Permalink

      Hello Michael, glad you have found our blog informational and helpful. If you are using an universal ground rod clamp you should not experience any issues with mixing metals. You will need to add more ground rods or ‘water’ your current ground bed. If you have any additional questions feel to give us a call at 1-800-KENCOVE

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